Vacation on the doorstep instead of crowds at an airport: When we decide to vacation on Borkum in May, the short and convenient journey is the main reason. After decades, I return to the vacation spot of my childhood. In June, Borkum's Südstrand was voted Germany's most beautiful beach by the readers of an online magazine for the second time after 2018. A good decision!
A little sea voyage
The largest of the East Frisian Islands is still a wonderfully tranquil place to slow down, perfect for family vacationers, dog owners, horseback riders, school classes, hikers and cyclists, yet by no means boring. With its endless wide beaches and over 130 kilometers of cycling and hiking trails, the "most beautiful pile of sand in the world", as the islanders call it, is located in the UNESCO World Heritage Wadden Sea, high sea climate included. People with respiratory diseases and allergy sufferers can breathe deeply here.
The more than two-hour trip on the car ferry is a small sea voyage, during which we can relax on the upper deck and enjoy the sun. For those in a hurry, there is the catamaran, which only takes an hour. At the harbor, the colorful island train is already waiting for the new arrivals to take them to the middle of the pretty center.
130 km of cycling and hiking trails
We quickly reached the vacation apartment at the old lighthouse on foot. And because there is a bicycle rental on every corner on Borkum, we are happy owners of two seven-speed bikes the next morning, Ricardo's bicycle rental offers a huge selection.
Borkum Tourism has compiled nine adventure routes between 2.1 and 20 kilometers in a brochure to discover the diversity of the island. You can scan them onto your cell phone using the QR code. We spontaneously decide to take the longest tour into the unspoiled nature of Duala. Past the forest nature trail and the airfield, the path leads directly to the beautiful east country, where two restaurants invite you to stop for a bite to eat. From there it is another ten minutes to the Steerenk-Klipp viewing dune. A path with wooden railing leads to the plateau, from where we have a panoramic view over the whole island and the Wadden Sea.
Along the dike and over the recently completed 655-meter Loopdeelenweg (wooden plank path) dune crest, we return to the southern beach. After more than 20 kilometers through hilly dune landscapes, we enjoy the sunset with beer and currywurst in front of one of the typical Borkum milk stalls.
Island in constant change
Borkum is an island in constant change. Not only in terms of economy and tourism, but also the land itself has changed over the centuries under the influence of wind, sea and currents. The fact that the 31-square-kilometer island is not a rigid entity is impressively demonstrated in particular by the recent development of the "Hohes Riff" seal bank. Due to the natural influx of sand masses, the seal bank has grown so much in recent years that it almost encloses the bathing bay at the Nordbad. Today, you can see the posh animals lying in their territory with the naked eye from the promenade.
Sport on the beach
Since the first tourists entered the island in the 19th century, the main bathing beach has constantly "migrated". Currently, the bathing activity is shifting more and more towards the south bath. In the season from May to October, yoga, Qi Gong and beach gymnastics for adults are offered in the mornings at the north and south baths by the beach animation, and in the afternoons there are all kinds of games for children. "The leisure offer is covered by the visitor's tax, registration is not required," says Suraya Stefanie Schmidt, head of the beach animators. In 2003, the trained physiotherapist came to the island and stayed. Initially only for the summer months as an animator, since 2012 also in winter as a physiotherapist in the "Gezeitenland", which offers a fitness, sauna and wellness area by the sea on 8000 square meters.
Sports facilities are a dime a dozen on Borkum. A new addition this year is the water sports base "Öy" on the main beach. The native islanders Wilke Brinkmann (32) and Jörn Donat (23) have returned to their homeland to fill a gap and make Borkum a water sports destination. Windsurfing, kitesurfing, surfing and stand-up paddling are available throughout the day. "The lagoon is the perfect beginner spot, advanced surfers go to the north side where there are also waves," says Jörn Donat, who competed on the GKA Kite Surf World Tour in 2019 and 2020 and finished 17th at the World Cup.
Of whales and whalers
If you want to get to know Borkum and its eventful history, you have to go to the Dykhus museum of local history. "An old island woman bequeathed the typical Frisian house to the local history society in the 1950s," says Tjard Steemann, who guides visitors through the museum every Monday with many stories to make them smile. In affectionate detail work from the Gulfhaus of 1750 a true treasure chest became. Among other things, visitors can learn about the Borkum whaling era, which began in 1643 and ended in the 18th century. More than 100 commanders from Borkum sailed under the Dutch flag during the "golden age", which brought prosperity and recognition, but many sailors did not return either. A captain's living room provides insight into the lifestyle of the time. Particularly impressive is the 15-meter-long skeleton of a young sperm whale hanging from the ceiling among other small whale skeletons.
I recognized many things during this vacation, the old and the new lighthouse, the music pavilion and the Gründerzeit houses on the promenade. Much is new, and I have not been able to try out everything in a week. How good that Borkum is virtually on our doorstep.
Information in a nutshell
Arrival: By car or train to Emden or Eemshaven (NL). Ferry or catamaran bookable at AG Ems. The ticket for the Borkumer Inselbahn is included in the price: Tel. 01805 180 182 (14 cents from landlines) or www.ag-ems.de
Dykhus Museum of Local History: Open daily from 10 am to 5 pm, on Mondays only museum tours at 3 pm and 4:30 pm. Prior registration and purchase of a ticket is required during regular opening hours at the museum. Tel: 04922/4860.
Info: http://www.heimatverein-borkum.de/heimatmuseum/ | Tourist-Information Borkum, Georg-Schütte-Platz 5, 26757 Borkum, Tel. 049229330, E-Mail: [email protected], https://www.borkum.de
Note on our own behalf: This article was partly supported by tour operators, restaurants, hotels, airlines and/or tourism agencies. We attach great importance to independent and neutral reporting; therefore, the opinions, impressions and experiences of the respective authors correspond to their personal views.
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