The sun slowly tilted toward the horizon, bathing the French countryside in a golden light. The whispering waves of the river announced the beginning of a cozy evening on our houseboat. As we glided gently through the mirror-smooth water, the picturesque scenery passed us by: idyllic villages framed by rapeseed fields and numerous anglers trying their luck in the dusk.
Start of our houseboat trip in Niderviller
A houseboat vacation is a wonderful way to experience a country from a new perspective. We had chosen France and started in Niderviller with "Aland", a houseboat of the type "Kormoran 1140" from Kuhnle-Tours. In the end, we mastered 30 locks and countless kilometers on the French canals.
Our journey began in Niderviller in the Grand Est region. This idyllic village is located on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin (Rhine-Marne Canal), which was to accompany us mainly on our tour. Niderviller is a perfect starting point to explore the breathtaking nature and historical sites of the area. This is also possible by bike, as a bike path runs almost parallel to the entire canal. Nearby attractions include the castle of Niderviller, the famous rock church of Saint-Léon and the picturesque town of Saverne with its impressive fortress complex, the Château des Rohan. To the right of the port, head toward Saverne, and to the left, Nancy, a city of magnificent squares and impressive architecture, such as Place Stanislas, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
During the ride you can enjoy the passing landscape, where forests, fields and vineyards alternate. The region is known for its first-class wines and regional specialties, such as the tarte flambée or the French quiche.
The picturesque route to Lutzelbourg
After moving into the boat, we set off from Niderviller in the direction of Lutzelbourg, a picturesque little town crowned by an impressive castle complex. The route passes through a varied landscape, characterized by dense forests, rolling hills and small villages where time seems to stand still. Since we are in the off-season, there is hardly any traffic on the canal.
A special highlight of the tour in the direction of Saverne is the crossing of the Souterrain d'Arzviller, an impressive tunnel that runs under the hills of the region. The 2.3-kilometer tunnel was built in the 19th century and is an impressive testimony to the engineering art of that time. The ride through the tunnel is a unique experience. The boats can only go in one direction at a time and at a maximum speed of 4 km/h.
Impressive engineering: Souterrain d'Arzviller and Plan Incliné d'Arzviller
After the Souterrain d'Arzviller, we reach the next highlight, the Plan Incliné d'Arzviller, an impressive ship lift construction that raises or lowers boats over a height difference of 44.5 meters. This engineering feat replaces 17 locks and significantly reduces boat travel time. A maximum of three boats fit into the "tub," which is then transported up or down on rails together with water and cargo.
The Plan Incliné d'Arzviller was put into operation in 1969 and is still an important landmark of the region as well as a tourist attraction. The lift not only makes it possible to overcome the difference in altitude, but also contributes to environmental protection, as less water is needed for the locks. In the surrounding area, there are also numerous hiking and biking trails that lead along the canal and through the picturesque landscape. These are ideal for exploration tours or relaxing breaks to fully enjoy the beauty of the region.
After leaving behind the Plan Incliné d'Arzviller, we finally reach Lutzelbourg. The small town is characterized by its picturesque location at the foot of the Vosges Mountains and the well-preserved Lutzelbourg Castle from the 13th century. A walk through the narrow streets and along the canal reveals the traditional flair of the region and gives an insight into life in times gone by.
On the way to Nancy: nature, industry and impressive locks
From there we went back to the starting point and then continued towards Nancy. The landscape gradually changed: it became flatter and the villages rarer. We spent our first night somewhere on the canal between Niderviller and Xouaxange. Another peculiarity of traveling by houseboat on the canal is that you can just moor anywhere. The boats are equipped with large pegs that you can simply hammer into the ground and attach your boat to them.
From Xouaxange, a picturesque village surrounded by green hills and lush forests, we continued along the canal towards Heming. The construction of the Canal de la Marne au Rhin began in the 19th century to allow traffic between the Rhine and the Marne. This important waterway connects the Marne and Rhine rivers, allowing a link between northeastern and southwestern Europe. It is on this stretch that the industrial past of the canal can be seen quite clearly. Several large factories line the edge of the canal, which at the time was mainly used by transport boats or barges to transport goods efficiently and cheaply.
Our journey continues to the Réchicourt lock, an impressive facility that is considered one of the largest locks in France. It overcomes a height difference of 15.38 meters and is a masterpiece of engineering. A real experience for all houseboat vacationers, because this "shaft", in which you stand with your boat, seems fascinating and frightening at the same time. After this experience, however, you arrive in one of the most beautiful regions of the tour. The canals lead you through the middle of a picturesque lake landscape. These "basins" serve as water reservoirs for the canals to regulate the water level.
Discoveries along the canal: Lagarde, Parroy and Bauzemont
We linger a while on these lakes and finally arrive at a small village with a marina: Lagarde. It is a typical Lorraine village where you can visit the Saint-Martin church. This historic building is known in the region for its beautiful stained glass windows.
We continue past Parroy, a place appreciated for its natural recreational opportunities, to Bauzemont. This small village is also known for its well-preserved 17th century fortress, which offers a glimpse into local history. Finally, we reach our intermediate destination, Einville-au-Jard, a charming village where you can relax as well as enjoy the Lorraine culture and way of life. Surprisingly, Einville-au-Jard offers the first shopping opportunity after three days. From the dock you can walk to the general store, the bakery and, if desired, the butcher.
Relaxation and activities during the return trip
Half of our journey is now over and we decide to start the way back in the direction of Niderviller. Bright sunshine and further deceleration await us. The boats, which can be driven without a boating license, reach a maximum speed of 8 km/h and ensure that you are not only in the fresh air all day, but also for total relaxation. Those who, like us, have bicycles on board can stop every now and then, moor up and cycle either along the canals or cross-country through rapeseed fields, or even take a tour into the mountains. There are numerous bike paths in the region, suitable for both beginners and experienced cyclists, so everyone can explore the picturesque landscape at their own pace.
Rent a houseboat in France: more info
Houseboats are usually equipped with basic kitchen utensils, bedding and towels. However, you should bring your own food and drinks or shop ashore at local stores. Also remember sunscreen, insect repellent, comfortable clothes and swimwear.
License-free houseboats vary in size and can accommodate from 2 to 12 people. The boats have bedrooms, a kitchen, bathrooms and a lounge area. Before you book a boat, make sure it has enough space for your travel group.
In France, there is a selection of houseboats that do not require a driver's license. These boats are usually easy to maneuver and have a speed limit of 8 km/h to ensure safety. When choosing your houseboat, make sure it is marked as "license free".
Find out in advance about the different waterways and possible routes in France. The most popular regions for houseboat vacations include Burgundy, the Loire, Camargue and Alsace. Plan your route according to your interests and the duration of your vacation.
Although you do not need a driver's license, you must be at least 18 years old to rent a houseboat in France. Before departure, you will receive a briefing on the operation of the boat and the traffic rules on the waterways. You will also have to pay a deposit, which will be returned to you after the return of the boat, provided that no damage has occurred.
Note on our own behalf: This article was partly supported by tour operators, restaurants, hotels, airlines and/or tourism agencies. We attach great importance to independent and neutral reporting; therefore, the opinions, impressions and experiences of the respective authors correspond to their personal views.
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