Israel? That's a destination for study trips, for pilgrims who like ancient stones, culture and desert - and maybe a little swimming in the Dead Sea. But for cycling? For that, Germans prefer to fly to Mallorca - or, in winter, as far away as South Africa. Haifa even hosted the European Mountain Bike Championships in 2010. Our author chose a road bike for his discovery tour through the Holy Land and rode all the way from the north down to the Red Sea.
A warm wind tugs violently at the jersey. Now just let it roll and enjoy. While the weather in Europe is grim, we send the summer into overtime and chase "short-short", with shorts and short jersey, on our racing bikes down a wide road that does not want to end. What a descent - there were not so many meters uphill before. But in Israel everything is a bit different. The Sea of Galilee, in the south of which our stage destination awaits, lies a good 200 meters below sea level.
In four stages to the Red Sea
"Trans-Israel-Challenge" - in four stages from the northern border of the country to the Red Sea - this is the ambitious project that takes us past biblical sites and unique natural monuments through an impressive country. Even if there is hardly any time left for cultural excursions or discovery tours on historical tracks - you probably can't experience a country much more intensively than on two wheels. Experiencing the country in the truest sense of the word is the goal of Harel Nahmani, who organized the tour. It becomes clear on the very first day that he has not exaggerated his promise of a unique experience.
When we turn off the main road into the Israeli-Lebanese border mountains after a few kilometers, the car traffic quickly falls behind. Our route takes us through the pine forests of the Admit Park and past the monumental natural wonder of the "Arch Cave", which with its rock gate is a paradise for extreme sports enthusiasts. The Galilee's mountain ranges ensure that the sporting demands are not neglected either, as they always put new gradients in the way. "Enjoy it, but divide your strength well", Harel had said, "best in this order".
Trans-Israel" focuses on sports and enjoying nature
Almost 40 athletes from the USA, Belgium, Great Britain, Canada, Ireland, South Africa, Switzerland and of course Israel are taking part in the second edition of the tour. They will be racing in different groups, depending on their form and desire. And just in case, there will not only be a mechanic with a car, but also an escort bus. With the "Trans-Israel" sport and nature benefit stand in the center. The rest is taken care of by the five-man support crew.
Perhaps Israel is not yet a typical cycling country. But mountain bikers have not only discovered the region as an insider tip since the 2010 European Championships in Haifa. The potential that the country sees in bicycle tourism can be seen in the numerous traffic signs that warn cyclists to be considerate. Only for us, no one has put them up here. And indeed, most motorists who pass us honking do so with a friendly wave: "Hop hop, keep it up."
The Sea of Galilee, not only the scene of biblical history, but also a natural paradise, the Jordan Rift Valley, the salt lake of the Dead Sea more than 400 meters below sea level, the natural spectacle of the En Gedi Oasis only a few kilometers away from the lowest point on earth, the former Jewish fortress Masada, a World Heritage Site since 2001, or the crater Machtesch Ramon in the Negev desert - it is a "best of" of historical sites and natural monuments that line up along the "Trans-Israel".
Longest road in Israel is 480 kilometers long
On the second day, after a few kilometers along Highway 90, the longest road in Israel at 480 kilometers, it takes us quite a while to pass the sign reading "Sea Level" on the steep road through a sparsely vegetated hillside. Bird watchers have posted themselves on the peaks of the Gilboa mountain range, which is a good 500 meters high, with nature reserves and national parks. In autumn and spring, Israel is an important stopover for migratory birds. More than 30,000 cranes winter in northern Israel every year.
The bath in the Dead Sea is of course a must - and perfect for tired cyclist muscles. After all, we need power for the next day. From the foot of Masada Fortress, we head into the middle of the Negev Desert. This dry desert makes up about 60 percent of the state's territory. Up to the horizon brown hill chain follows brown hill chain. Sometimes it takes half an hour before another car appears - instead, a few camels graze not far from the road. Only occasionally do signs point along gravel roads to nowhere and to the fact that there must be more life out there somewhere. Nevertheless, the Negev desert is also a paradise for hikers - preferably with a local guide. With a minimum of experience, however, independent tours are also possible, not least thanks to a signalized network of paths.
After a few kilometers the road plunges into the depths
The last stage of the "Trans-Israel" starts early. Already at dusk we are on the bike, but stop after a few kilometers, when the road in front of us plunges unmediated into the depths. The Machtesch Ramon - almost 1000 meters deep 40 kilometers in diameter - is the largest crater in the Negev desert. It is still cool in the morning, while on the horizon over Jordan the sun is rising. When, as if on cue, a few Nubian ibex appear, the picture is perfect. But we have with almost 170 kilometers the longest stage of the week ahead of us - so nothing like purely into the rapid descent to the crater bottom. Next time we'll bring more time. The entire crater is a nature and landscape reserve. The centuries-long erosion process has exposed primeval volcanic cones, petrified tree trunks and coral reefs, and magma chambers. But even from the road, the crater leaves a lasting impression. Simply tremendous is what nature has created here.
What a contrast to the finale. One more descent and we've reached the southernmost point of Israel. As if from an oven, the hot air that rises from the rocks washes around us as the road washes us down from the Eilat Mountains to the resort of the same name with its hotels. Now not even the wind cools us down. Instead, it suddenly glitters ahead: the Red Sea. Bathing time.
Getting there - Tel Aviv Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV) is Israel's most important and largest airport and is served from Germany Lufthansa or the Israeli airline El Al for example via Frankfurt or Munich. Inexpensive connecting flights from Düsseldorf are also offered by Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines via Turkey. From the airport, the starting point of the tour can be easily reached by train. A visa is not required for Israel, a passport - valid for at least six months after entry - is sufficient.
Information & Booking - The Trans-Israel Challenge is a road bike tour with four stages that leads from the northern border of the country to the Red Sea. The trip (five nights, full board) costs 1200 euros (excluding travel). The next Trans-Israel-Challenge takes place from 26 to 29 October. Individual or led extensions - also with further racing wheel stages - are just as possible as completely individual routes. Information and booking: https://www.trans-israel.co.il/en. Various tour operators also offer tours lasting several days on trekking bikes or mountain bikes - sometimes combined with excursions and an escort vehicle for particularly challenging sections. General travel information and tips on Israel are also available on the web at https://goisrael.de/.
Service - At the "Trans-Israel" two escort vehicles, which are ready at regular intervals with ice-cold water and small snacks, provide for the participants. In each case at the lunch time completely large one drives up and the camping table brought along has hardly place for numerous simple however wonderful Israeli delicacies. Always there: Hummus, an oriental specialty made from pureed chickpeas, olive oil and spices.
Note on our own behalf: This article was partly supported by tour operators, restaurants, hotels, airlines and/or tourism agencies. We attach great importance to independent and neutral reporting; therefore, the opinions, impressions and experiences of the respective authors correspond to their personal views.
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