According to the British "Economist" ranking, Frankfurt has made it to seventh place among the world's most popular cities in the summer of 2022, ahead of Hamburg (16) and Düsseldorf (22). And yet the Main metropolis is often denied one thing: Atmosphere. On closer inspection, however, this is unjustified.
Gateway to the world
Besides the silver-blue glittering glass fronts of the skyscrapers, there is a lot of green in the center and around it. From the Main Tower, you have a magnificent panoramic view of Frankfurt and the surrounding area. Hardly any other German city has such a long tradition of banking, trade and fairs. In terms of globalization, "Mainhattan", where people from over 180 nationalities live, work and study, is at the forefront. The airport, train station and inland port are gateways to the world. The Paulskirche is the cradle of German democracy, there are countless museums and the Schirn Kunsthalle is one of the best in the world.
Frankfurt's New Old Town
A few years ago, nostalgic homeliness returned to the metropolitan juggernaut with the New Old Town and its winding alleys, which were recreated from the half-timbered inner city destroyed in World War II under the name Dom-Römer project (2012-2018). The lively district, which has the character of Old Frankfurt, forms the link between the cathedral and the Römer. It is not Disneyland, but a mix of old and trimmed to old, with typical Frankfurt gastronomy and a ban on burger and fast food chains.
All just a facade?
Where the Technical City Hall was located until 2010, an urban reconstruction project was realized on about 7000 square meters. 35 houses were rebuilt almost on their original site. Only the alleys are wider today, because emergency vehicles also have to get through. The 20 new buildings have reference to the old, but are rather modern in design. 14 of the houses have retained the old original facade, so-called creative replicas: half-timbered in front - concrete behind.
The only half-timbered house built true to the original is the house "Zur Goldenen Waage". It was once built by a rich spice trader and confectioner, a religious refugee from the Spanish Netherlands. With its wooden decorations, Renaissance roof and belvedere, it is the most beautiful house in the New Old Town. Many original parts can be found both on the Renaissance façade from the 17th century and inside the coffee house on the first floor. On the upper floors, the Historical Museum presents precious furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, which can be visited only with a guided tour.
History showcase
Right next to the "Golden Scales" is the Archaeological Garden, a branch of the Archaeological Museum. As part of the Dom-Römer project, the complex was built over with the Stadthaus am Markt. Thus, the excavations are better protected from the weather. Under the
name "Imperial Palace Franconofurd," it was reopened in 2018 as a kind of showcase into the origins of the Main metropolis. Frankfurt's oldest preserved building remains are presented on the cathedral hill.
Struwwelpeter and Aunt Melber
Famous Frankfurt personalities - real and fictional - can be encountered at every turn in the New Old Town. The "creative replica" in the street Hinter dem Lämmchen 2-4 today not only houses the Struwwelpeter Museum, which is well worth seeing, but was also the home of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe's favorite aunt Johanna Melber, née Textor (1734-1823). The fun-loving aunt from poetry and truth was the younger sister of Goethe's mother Catharina Elisabeth. As a youngster, Goethe often and gladly visited Aunt Melber, because life pulsated there. Here was the old town with market hustle and bustle and fairs. Quite different from his birthplace Am großen Hirschgraben, which was in a quieter district.
Goethe's birthplace
For a long time, the people of Frankfurt were annoyed with Goethe (1749-1832) because the prince of poets, who came from a distinguished Frankfurt family, turned his back on his hometown in his mid-20s and went to Weimar in October 1775. In order to overcome his unhappy love for the banker's daughter Lili Schönemann, to whom he had been engaged for six months, he accepted the duke's invitation to Weimar, where he remained until the end of his life. The residence on Großer Hirschgraben, in whose light green-painted poet's room Goethe wrote "The Sorrows of Young Werther" and the beginnings of "Faust," among other works, was faithfully reconstructed after World War II. In the special atmosphere of the rooms, the family life of the Goethes comes alive again. Adjacent to the Goethe House are a picture gallery and the German Romantic Museum.
Goethe in cocktail glass
Today, Frankfurt's most famous son is once again enjoying great popularity and Goethe can be found in many places - sometimes quite unexpectedly: Goethe's childhood sweetheart Lili Schönemann, whom he could not forget until old age, is the namesake for "Lili's Bar" in the five-star Sofitel Frankfurt Opera hotel. The facade of the hotel is a contemporary homage to the rebuilt Alte Oper (Old Opera House) directly opposite, of which only the facade had remained standing, as well as to the surrounding Gründerzeit buildings and the French hôtels particuliers (town palaces) of the 17th and 18th centuries.
The Sofitel Frankfurt Opera, has 150 rooms, including 15 junior suites, 13 prestige suites, two opera suites and a presidential suite with a spacious roof terrace, as well as a large spa. The "Restaurant Schönemann," with entrance on Opernplatz, adds a French-Frankfurt facet to the local gastronomy. Bar manager Jay Jureit and her team have created a cocktail menu in homage to the famous lovers, with drinks inspired by Goethe and Lili's liaison, such as the sparkling "New Love," the "Groom," or "Faust I."
Double Goethe
An end to Goethe? Not by a long shot! Frankfurt's most expensive shopping mall is Goethe-Strasse, which runs parallel to the no less famous Fressgass. For a boat trip on the Main, you can take the "Johann Wolfgang von Goethe," among others. And if you then walk from the landing stage over the Eiserner Steg to the museum bank, you can reach the Städel Museum on foot, where a double Goethe awaits visitors: Johann H. W. Tischbein's "Goethe in the Campagna" on the second floor with masterpieces from the 19th and 20th centuries, and Andy Warhol's "Goethe" as a silkscreen (1982) in the basement. Nature lovers will find Goethe's traces in the enchanting Palm Garden with butterfly house and Tropicarium. Right next to the Tropicarium, Goethe's mother is said to have run a fruit and vegetable garden where apple trees stand today. In 2021, an insect hotel was added to this area of the Goethe Garden.
Travel information
Frankfurt Card
The Frankfurt Card, which is available for one or two days, can be used on all public transport including the airport. It also grants discounts at museums, the zoo, the Palmengarten and on boat trips. These cards are available, among other places, at the tourist information offices in the main train station and at the Römer or online.
Excursion tip
The Maintower. From there you have the best view of all of Frankfurt and the surrounding area. Admission prices: Adults. 9 euros; reduced 6 euros (only on site) Family ticket: 20 euros (2 adults up to 3 children).
PalmenGarten: from December 10, illuminations transform it into a magical glowing garden landscape. Daily from 5 - 9 pm. Tickets: www.frankfurtticket.de
Hotel
Sofitel Frankfurt Opera, Opernplatz 16, 150 rooms, including 15 junior suites, 13 prestige suites, two opera suites and a presidential suite with a spacious roof terrace. 15 rooms have balconies and a large spa. Restaurants: "Schönemann" and "Lili's Bar".
Travel literature
"Frankfurt", Susanne Asal, Dumont, 120 p., 11,95 Euro
Left:
www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
www.sofitel-frankfurt.com/de/
www.maintower.de
www.palmengarten.de
Note on our own behalf: This article was partly supported by tour operators, restaurants, hotels, airlines and/or tourism agencies. We attach great importance to independent and neutral reporting; therefore, the opinions, impressions and experiences of the respective authors correspond to their personal views.
Advertising: The links marked with an asterisk (*) are affiliate links (advertising).