Icy cold wind blows in my face as I hold on to the railing and admire the rugged cliffs of the Geirangerfjord. The majestic beauty of the Norwegian fjords has cast its spell on me. Here, aboard the "Havila Capella," a Norwegian mail ship, I become part of a long-sought dream - to once travel by mail ship along the wild coast of Norway, from Bergen all the way up to Bodø, where the Arctic begins. It may be a short trip, but it's gorgeous!
From Berlin via Amsterdam to Bergen
From Berlin we flew via Amsterdam to Bergen, the second largest city in Norway and the gateway to the famous fjords. The view from the plane during the approach to Bergen was impressive. The breathtaking natural scenery with the individual islands and the view of the now illuminated old town of Bergen, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, awakened the anticipation of what was to come
By shuttle bus we went to the ship "Havila Capella", which was in the harbor of Bergen. The ship belongs to the Havila Voyages fleet, which operates along the Norwegian coast and transports both passengers and cargo. At 7 p.m. on the dot, the ship set course for Ålesund, a picturesque town on the west coast of Norway known for its Art Nouveau architecture and its proximity to the famous Geirangerfjord. This stunning fjord was also to be our highlight of the day the next day. A trip to the Geirangerfjord was on the agenda.
But before that, we had dinner at the Havrand Restaurant on board the "Havila Capella". The restaurant is inspired by Norwegian cuisine and offers Norwegian fish dishes and other local specialties. Here, guests can enjoy the country's culinary delights in a cozy atmosphere.
A journey to the heart of Norway: Geirangerfjord in sight
The second day of our journey began and expectations were high. During the night, the ship, the "Havila Capella", had called at several ports to pick up or drop off cargo and passengers. Around 9:45 a.m. we arrived in Ålesund, a picturesque town that served as the starting point for our next adventure: a catamaran trip to the breathtaking Geirangerfjord.
During the three-hour drive, majestic rock faces unfolded before us, stretching to the sky at a dizzying height. Between them shimmered the dark blue waters of the fjord. The forces of nature have created a masterpiece here over the millennia. Sporadically, one could discover small farms and homesteads. Some of them can only be reached by adventurous serpentine roads or narrow paths - testimony to the indomitability and determination of the people who live in this inhospitable region.
If there was anything that dampened the enthusiasm for this place a little, it was the weather. A cold wind blew across the deck of the catamaran, penetrating to the bone. Still, the cold and snow weren't enough to overshadow the beauty of the surroundings - instead, they added a touch of mystique and wildness to the scenery.
Finally arrived in Geiranger, one could not escape the magic of the Geirangerfjord. No matter how many times you had seen it or heard about it, the incomparable beauty of this natural scenery touched everyone deep inside. A bus took us to the viewing platform "Flydalsjuvet", from where you can enjoy the best view of the fjord - a postcard motif despite the gray weather. In the summer months the fjord is full of tourists.
From 2026, only zero-emission sailing is to be permitted. This will benefit the "Havila Capella" and its sister ships, which can be operated with electric propulsion. All other cruise ships will then no longer be allowed to sail the fjord. This is a positive step for the environment, and tour operators will certainly find alternative ways to bring tourists to this impressive natural wonder.
From Trondheim to the ship's bridge
On the third day of our voyage aboard the "Havila Capella" we approach the picturesque city of Trondheim. The night was again characterized by short stops at various ports, which the captain approached with impressive punctuality. Trondheim is no exception.
After the ship docks in the port of Trondheim, we set out on foot to explore the city. Our first stop is the impressive Nidaros Cathedral, a majestic cathedral that was once an important pilgrimage site for the faithful of St. Olav. The fascinating Gothic architecture and intricate decorations on the facade draw the eye. However, the city has even more to offer: picturesque alleys, historic buildings and inviting cafes make the tour of Trondheim an unforgettable experience.
After our visit to the city, we return on board, as the stay in Trondheim is limited to just under four hours. On the ship, an exclusive tour of the engine room of the "Havila Capella" awaits us. This will give us the rare opportunity to get a close-up look at the impressive propulsion units and advanced technologies that power this ship.
The "Havila Capella" runs on environmentally friendly liquefied natural gas (LNG)
The "Havila Capella" is powered mainly by environmentally friendly liquefied natural gas (LNG) and can switch to electric propulsion if required. Particularly fascinating are the powerful batteries, which are housed in two large rooms and ensure low-emission operation of the ship.
During our exploration of the engine room, we not only learn more about the technical details of the propulsion systems, but also about the environmental friendliness of the "Havila Capella". The ship was developed as part of the shipping company's sustainability initiative to reduce the ecological footprint of shipping. Another interesting aspect is the innovative energy optimization system that continuously monitors and adjusts the ship's energy consumption to ensure maximum efficiency. Overall, we get a fascinating insight into modern shipping technology and the industry's efforts to find and implement more environmentally friendly solutions.
Another highlight of the day was the visit to the ship's modern bridge. Here we met the captain and the ship's officers, who gave us a little insight into the fascinating world of navigation and control of such a state-of-the-art ship. With all its technical refinements and high-resolution displays, the bridge looked more like the cockpit of a spaceship than the wheelhouse of a conventional ship.
Farewell to the "Havila Capella" at the Arctic Circle
The last day of our trip dawned and began with a special experience: crossing the Arctic Circle. We reached the geographic line marking the Arctic Circle promptly at 9 a.m. and were immediately greeted by a noticeable change in the atmosphere. The wind became colder and the air clearer.
For this special moment, the crew had come up with a "polar baptism," a mixture of traditional custom and joking interlude. Only a few brave passengers decided to take on the ice-cold water - to the delight of the other guests, who froze along in solidarity inside. A short time later we arrived in Bodø and from aboard the "Havila Capella" we took a cab directly to the airport. Farewell to the breathtaking landscape of Norway and back to rainy Berlin, which waits in contrast to the clarity of the Arctic Circle with its urban hustle and bustle.
Note on our own behalf: This article was partly supported by tour operators, restaurants, hotels, airlines and/or tourism agencies. We attach great importance to independent and neutral reporting; therefore, the opinions, impressions and experiences of the respective authors correspond to their personal views.
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